(Dana)

The Marquesas of French Polynesia were one of the most anticipated stops on our rally plan. French Polynesia was the grand finale of our 2010-11 trip; we spent three weeks in the Society Islands and Tuamotus, although without time to reach the mysterious Marquesas. Here was our chance. The islands did not disappoint.

Naturally, the islands are stunning. Breathtaking. Gorgeous. Memorable. Ancient volcanoes jut straight out of the ocean, rising to 4000-foot peaks. Cliffs are either verdant green or starkly volcanic. Anchorages are tucked beside cliffs with villages nestled in the valleys between massive ridges. So many panoramas.

Hiva Oa was a quick stop to clear-in, replenish fresh food stocks, and breathe after our successful 17-day crossing. It was rainy and rolly in the outer harbor, so we rented a car for our first taste of the islands. We viewed Atuona’s black sand beach as well as the ancient Marquesan ceremonial site of Upeke. Our first Hinano beer and the vista from Hanakee Lodge was a great start to the adventure.

Three bays on the western side of Tahuata amped up the views. First, the large white sand beach dominated the shoreline of Hanamoenoa Bay. Walking the empty beach, watching turtles play in the crashing waves was magical. At 6am, a “squadron” of manta rays circled Latitude, enjoying the abundant plankton. We were mesmerized by these majestic creatures, gliding by us, swimming under us, and even allowing us to diver under them as they slapped the surface. I was giddy. Little did we know that it would be the first of several amazing manta experiences.

In Vaitahu, we were the only boat in the wide anchorage. Accompanied by a sweet local puppy, Greg and I climbed the road to the cross overlooking the bay (97% of Marquesans are Catholic; the missionaries achieved their goals!).

Finally, in Hanatefau, we nestled up at the foot of the cliffs only 100 meters from the shore in 25 meters of water. The walls provided a backdrop for fun snorkeling and a wall dive, including a school of 15 black-tipped reef sharks. Spinner dolphins came to play in the mornings.

At anchor in The Bay of Virgins, Fatu Hiva

Fatu Hiva was our priority from the outset. It has been called “the most beautiful anchorage in the world.” From our experience, many places in the world do not live up to the hype. Fatu Hiva showed up. From the moment we arrived in the Bay of Virgins, we were in love with this anchorage. The soaring cliffs with numerous stone pillars in which you could imagine tiki faces and warriors. A backdrop of multiple intense shades of green. Waves crashing against black volcanic rocks. Interestingly, it was formerly known as the Bay of Penises due to those rock formations, but that name was not acceptable to the missionaries who just changed it. Walking to the waterfall was like traversing Eden; mangoes dropping from trees along the path to be scooped up and eaten. Our trip up and over the mountains from the village of Hanavave to the other village of Omoa was other-worldly. Heart-pounding inclines. Heart-stopping hairpin turns. Incredible panoramas. A drive that is even more wonderful once you are back on flat ground in the village.

And more mantas. Every day, they appeared. Sometimes just one at sunset, right next to the boat so we could admire his markings and movements (and take photos). Sometimes just one floating right towards me while I hung from the swim ladder. And my favorite day when a squadron of ten entertained us, circling up in formation from the deep and zig-zagging the surface. I was officially obsessed. It was hard to leave.

Riva and her newly-minted crafty students

Ua Po is the island of the nine spires that float in and out of view among the clouds. The highlight from Haakuti Bay was a scenic walk to an idyllic waterfall, tucked away in the forest, with no one around for miles.

And finally, Nuku Hiva. The dark horse. Least anticipated, yet wonderful. Multiple walks on the North side from Anaho Bay to the vast sand beach of Ha’atuatua and sweatily over the “hill” to the picturesque town of Hatiheu. And another epic drive from Taiohe over the mountains onto the Toovii Plateau in the caldera of the original volcano, all the way to the viewpoint over the island’s Grand Canyon. Underwater, many fish greeted me on my final dive in the Marquesas, including a final manta saying goodbye.

The only element more memorable than the natural panoramas were the wonderful people of the Marquesas. On each island, we walked through villages of a few hundred people, and everyone was welcoming and friendly. Notably:

Jimmy of Chez Jimmy in Vaihatu who hosted us at his restaurant and took us to his house the next day where he filled an entire shopping bag with fresh grapefruit, mangoes, limes, avocados, mint, lemongrass, etc.
The artisans in Hapatoni who carved the necklaces and wooden paddles we are bringing home. Local musicians entertained the visitors.
Poi and Reva on Fatu Hiva who drove us on our epic island adventure; hosted Latitude and Carina for dinner overflowing with tuna and meats; introduced us to the Marquesan crafts of tapa (hammered bark canvas), tiki carving, hair bouquet making; and supplied us with local honey and fruits from their gardens.
Manfred, the eccentric (and ribald) East German who moved to Ua Pao decades ago and now makes delicious chocolate in his jungle workshop at the top of a hill.
Jacqueline and her family of Chez Jacqueline on Nuku Hiva who fed our large tables for two straight nights with local Polynesian/Chinese fusion cuisine.
Alaine and Ahi, the local tattoo artists, whose work was banned in the Marquesas until the 1980s!
And finally, Colette of the Nuku Hiva tourism office, who hosted a big craft fair for the Oyster fleet including hakas, drums, local fruits, craft making, and horseback rides during the day, followed by a Marquesan oven (meat cooked slowly underground for hours) and an epic drumming/dancing extravaganza. It was wonderful to see so many younger people committed to the traditional tattoos, drumming, singing, and dancing of the Marquesan culture. Hopefully they will continue to educate travelers like us for a long time.

Perhaps the best thing about these views and experiences is that we are doing them at a pace that is SO different from the one I am used to at home. Walking along the dock the other day, I was struck by how slowly I was walking. No need to cram a lot into one day. Just allow the days to unfold. It is truly a lovely way to experience this part of the world.

Marquesas: Panoramas, People…Pace

Brigadoon