(Dana)

Fiji and Vanuatu. Two countries I was very much looking forward to on the rally. And not just because I wanted to add them to my country-count – which is now (weird flex) at 113 depending on how you define “country/territory”, i.e. does it have its own flag like Scotland, even though Scotland is part of the UK. But I digress.

I knew I would love the time under water. I underestimated how much I would enjoy our land exploration. Our kids would not believe that I underestimated that. After all, I was the one who forced five homestays on them during our 2010 6explorers trip. Back then, the goal was to teach our kids that people – especially other kids – can be happy without the luxuries that we consider “must haves.” So, it’s not surprising that I like connecting with local people as we zip through their lives.

We found many entrepreneurs leveraging their resources on Nanuya and Nanuya Lailai Islands:

Semi and Kinnie saw the boats anchored in the Blue Lagoon and started hosting curry dinners and beach bonfires. Our day, they had run out of pork and tried to purchase it from us, but we had none, so, we enjoyed pumpkin curry instead.
Lo’s teahouse on the other side of island from the anchorage, where Lo and her young assistant fried homemade donuts and drizzled them with caramel sauce. A good reason to make the multi-hour hike to the other side.
Near Lo, Nick made homemade coconut and banana popsicles. The only challenge was that his hours were hit-or-miss based on his fishing schedule.

One Sunday on Waya Island, we joined the local villagers at church. Country-wide, ~70% of Fijians are Christian; in the Yasawa Group of islands, almost everyone is Christian. So, Sundays are church days. While we couldn’t follow the actual service in Fijian, we loved the singing, especially by the children. In fact, Fijian musical talent was on display everywhere, from church to the traditional dancing and singing of formal tourist shows to the farewell song performed by the Vuda Marina staff as we were departing their beautiful country.

In Vanuatu, we found opportunities to engage with local people on Tanna, Erromango, and Efate islands. Tanna was our first stop:

The village of 200 people adopted the Oyster fleet, hosting us for a big group dinner at the “yacht club” and a village-wide gift exchange. The boats were encouraged to bring items to donate – extra ropes, kitchen items, t-shirts, reading glasses, crafts, etc. In exchange, we were given hand woven bags full of local fruits and vegetables. A great trade! After the formal welcome, I wandered around the group of predominantly women and children (the men were mostly out fishing in their dugout canoes). I admired older sisters carrying and caring for infant siblings. I watched children play a game like jacks with pebbles. I sat down with Elizabeth and her new son Addison who decorated me with some dyed chicken feathers. I watched the ladies cook chicken and vegetables over open fires.

Could still see the spit bubbles…mmmm.

The next day, Nasse showed us around his island, where almost everyone we passed shouted hello to him. We saw the airport, found the ATM, sampled Tanna coffee at a café, had lunch at a local resort, and then went to Yaken Kostam Village to understand how Vanuatu people lived before the Christian missionaries arrived and westernized everyone. We met Chief Albi, naked except for a tasseled penis cover. We were shown the traditional dances by women in dried grass skirts and men in penis coverings. We had mixed feelings on that part. While the villagers are indeed living a customary life, the dancing felt like a tourist show. The most authentic element of the village visit was the Kava ceremony. Unlike in Fiji where Cava root is pounded by mortar and pestle, then drained through a cheesecloth, in Vanuatu, the traditional method is to have a celibate young man chew on the Kava root, spit out the pulp, and mix it with river water. What could go wrong? Yes, it was disgusting!

Then on Vanuatu’s 46th(!) Independence Day, Nasse led us 7km each way up and over a steep ridge. A hike he claims he can make in 30 minutes took us 3 hours. Perhaps because we were wildly unprepared for the exertion, with not nearly enough water or snacks. Perhaps because we are 60(ish). It was worth the effort, as we watched the entire village enjoying their collective day off. Females playing volleyball. Males playing football (soccer). Intriguing strict gender lines. Our goal was a swim in the river warmed by the nearby volcano (see Greg’s post). Super cool.

A short 5-hour sail away on Erromango, David – the owner of Dillon’s Bay Yacht Club – took us on a walk through the well-maintained and laid-out village of 400 people to the swimming hole at the river. Since it was Saturday, school was closed, and dozens of kids joined us for the walk. Their enthusiasm was infectious. They loved holding our hands. We left our mini Patriots Super Bowl football with a girl named Minnie because they were having so much fun playing together.

And a market on Efate.

No home stays, but a lot of memorable interactions with local people. Fantastic!

Island Life

Half Way

Vulcan’s Fury