(Dana) Boats provide the enchanting freedom to explore remote locations alongside few other visitors. No hotels or restaurants nearby. Just local people working and living in their communities, willing to share their natural beauty with interlopers.

Our three months in the South Pacific has been sprinkled with places like this. Locations that will likely end up on the Top 10 list at the end of the 2026-27 Rally. We’ve written about Fatu Hiva in the Marquesas – a world-class anchorage with the loveliest family who guided and fed us. Greg spoke glowingly about Niue – a gem of a country with crystal clear blue waters and limestone caves; a country I didn’t even know existed six months ago. And during our week in Tonga, we discovered multiple remote anchorages in beautiful blue water in front of uninhabited islands. We met friendly Tongans excited to host us at their feast of roasted pig, freshly caught fish, and local fruits and vegetables. Now Fiji has given us two more to add to this list.

Bay of Islands

The Lau Group is a set of ~55 islands East of the main Fijian island of Viti Levu (translates to Large Fiji). We didn’t think we would get there as it requires a 60-mile upwind sail into the prevailing wind and waves – a miserable prospect. Then we met Adam Wade and Lisa Philp and their family in a marina. After an hour’s discussion about the Bay of Islands, we were sold. A weather window of relatively flat seas and calm winds happened to open for the exact day we wanted to head east… so we went for it. We were not disappointed. Not only is it spectacular, but we got to experience the beauty through a local family.

The Wade/Philp family owns a 2000-acre former coconut plantation on Balavu Island in the northern Laus. They turned one of the two houses into The Royal Exploring Islands Yacht Club, better known as the Sometimes Yacht Club because it is only open sometimes. Benefit one of being there with the owners. Over two days, they guided us through their plantation, which felt right out of Jurassic Park (less the dinos), and took us on a snorkel tour of the Bay of Islands. The Bay of Islands is a stunning anchorage of limestone mushrooms in gorgeous blue/green water. We snorkeled into caves. We floated in the “swimming pool.” We found stingrays and Nemos. We gazed at the Milky Way, vivid without any ambient light. We listened to the waves crash into the limestone as we fell asleep.

A magical place that is only accessible by boat.

Yasawa-i-Rara

After leaving Balavu and stopping for a few days on the coast of Viti Levu, we arrived at the northern-most island of the Yasawa Group – Yasawa-i-Rara. Before any exploration, we went ashore with shoulders and knees covered to the town to perform sevusevu with the 86-year-old female chief. We have been told that she is the only female chief in the Yasawa Group of islands, an honor passed down from her father. Imagine just driving up to a stranger’s home and sending your kids to play in their backyard without asking permission. Sevusevu consists of bringing a donation of kava root and other household items to ask permission to enjoy the owner’s land.

Side note on Kava. Fijians pound kava root, wrap the powder in cheesecloth, and knead it into water to create a traditional, non-alcoholic drink that looks like muddy water, tastes earthy, and leaves a gentle, numbing, tingling sensation on the tongue and lips. It is part of every welcome ceremony and big Fijian event. Historically a male beverage, Fijians have been known to drink 100 cups from 10AM-8PM before drifting off to sleep. As one man said to us, “alcohol makes you angry; kava makes you mellow.” Greg and I did try it on a few occasions, including 8 cups at one event! We didn’t feel anything other than a bit rumbly in the tummy that night!

The Chief of Ysawa-i-Rara, who is 83. (On the right)

Sitting with the chief of Yasawa-i-Rara gave us some insight into the political dynamics as well. She was the chief, which didn’t seem to sit super well with her younger brother who joined us to bless (and take) the kava root donation. Her older son was with her, although he will not be the chief because he is registered in his father’s village. So her second son will be the future chief. One of the sources of income in the village is cooking for visiting boaters. But there appears to be a disagreement between the chief’s brother who thinks he should be able to invite the people he meets through the chief and the chief’s son who thinks the revenue opportunity should rotate among the villagers. Ah palace intrigue even in the northern Yasawas!

After our sevusevu, we took a walk through the village to the kindergarten where four adorable 4-and-5-year-olds introduced themselves in English and sang us a few songs in Fijian. They want to be nurses, police officers, and firemen when they grow up. Adorable.

Finally, our permission extended to the most beautiful beach we have ever been on (and blessedly we have been on a lot) – Champagne Beach. White sand. Blue clear water. Volcanic rocks. Stargazing with no ambient light. Fun Kiwis to share a beach bonfire. And no one else on the entire miles-long beach. What a gift.

This is why we have a boat.

Remote by Boat

A Sapphire Found